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in a time-lapse video,it looks like a monster coming alive. for a moment, it sits there innocuously. then, ripples move across its surface. it bulges outwards,bursting with weird boils. it triples in volume. its color darkens ominously,and its surface hardens into an alien topographyof peaks and craters. then, the kitchen timer dings. your cookie is ready.

what happened inside that oven? don't let the apron deceive you! bakers are mad scientists. when you slide the pan into the oven, you're setting off a seriesof chemical reactions that transform one substance, dough,into another, cookies. when the dough reaches92 degrees fahrenheit, the butter inside melts, causing the dough to start spreading out.

butter is an emulsion, or mixture of two substances that don't want to stay together, in this case, water and fat, along with some dairy solidsthat help hold them together. as the butter melts,its trapped water is released. and as the cookie gets hotter,the water expands into steam. it pushes against the doughfrom the inside, trying to escape through the cookie walls

like ridley scott's chest-bursting alien. your eggs may have been hometo squirming salmonella bacteria. an estimated 142,000 americansare infected this way each year. though salmonella can live for weeksoutside a living body and even survive freezing, 136 degrees is too hot for them. when your dough reachesthat temperature, they die off. you'll live to test your fatewith a bite of raw dough you sneak from your next batch.

at 144 degrees,changes begin in the proteins, which come mostlyfrom the eggs in your dough. eggs are composed of dozensof different kinds of proteins, each sensitive to a different temperature. in an egg fresh from the hen, these proteins looklike coiled up balls of string. when they're exposed to heat energy, the protein strings unfoldand get tangled up with their neighbors. this linked structure

makes the runny egg nearly solid, giving substance to squishy dough. water boils away at 212 degrees, so like mud baking in the sun, your cookie gets dried outand it stiffens. cracks spread across its surface. the steam that was bubblinginside evaporates, leaving behind airy pocketsthat make the cookie light and flaky. helping this alongis your leavening agent,

sodium bicarbonate, or baking soda. the sodium bicarbonate reactswith acids in the dough to create carbon dioxide gas,which makes airy pockets in your cookie. now, it's nearly readyfor a refreshing dunk in a cool glass of milk. one of science's tastiest reactions occurs at 310 degrees. this is the temperaturefor maillard reactions.

maillard reactions result when proteins and sugars break downand rearrange themselves, forming ring-like structures, which reflect light in a way that gives foods like thanksgiving turkey and hamburgers their distinctive, rich brown color. as this reaction occurs, it produces a range of flavorand aroma compounds,

which also react with each other, forming even more complextastes and smells. caramelization is the last reaction to take place inside your cookie. caramelization is what happens when sugar moleculesbreak down under high heat, forming the sweet, nutty, and slightly bitter flavor compoundsthat define, well, caramel. and, in fact, if your recipecalls for a 350 degree oven,

it'll never happen, since caramelizationstarts at 356 degrees. if your ideal cookie is barely browned, like a northeasterner on a beach vacation, you could have setyour oven to 310 degrees. if you like your cookiesto have a nice tan, crank up the heat. caramelization continuesup to 390 degrees. and here's another trick:

you don't need that kitchen timer; your nose is a sensitivescientific instrument. when you smell the nutty, toasty aromas of the maillard reactionand caramelization, your cookies are ready. grab your glass of milk, put your feet up, and reflect that sciencecan be pretty sweet.