Tuesday, April 4, 2017

How To Flashing lava e702

  No comments


keyword : How To Flashing lava e702 for bootloop , How To Flashing lava e702 for softbrick , How To Flashing lava e702 for hardbrick , How To Flashing lava e702 Error Camera , How To Flashing lava e702 blank screen , How To Flashing lava e702 lost password , How To Flashing lava e702 stuck logo , How To Flashing lava e702 new 2017. How To Flashing lava e702 repair phone.




Download one of the above file:


Further to the next stage
1. Copy the file to Sd Card
2.boot into recovery mode, in the file already exists in the form of .pdf open a full tutorial and follow the instructions. anyone using flashing software.
3. When've followed all of the conditions please check the phone has been normal what is not.
4.Ciri EMMC feature of flashing not damaged in the road, still can wipe data cache. but install the update form sd card can not or will not runing.
5.booting first after install rom fair amount of time of approximately 15 minutes. Do not hurry to remove the battery. wait until the system finishes booting.

important: before doing anything on the phone to do the data backup beforehand. can pass CMW, recovery, twrp please find if you have not got.

How To Flashing lava e702

chances are you’ve thrown these things inthe trash without even knowing it. but if you use them like this, they’ll spawn anelectric arc hot enough to melt any metal known to man, and even turn rocks into lava.in this project we’re modifying a fire brick and some flashlight batteries, to build anelectrical arc furnace, on a budget. let’s start this project, with a heavy dutylantern battery, and this alumina silicate refractory brick. the brick is 3” tall,4.5” wide, and 9” long. let’s get to work making the furnace by measuring lengthwise, and markingat 3”, 4.5”, and 6”. this is where it needs to be cut, so it’s a good idea todraw perpendicular lines with something like a combination square to make it as accurateas possible. now get a mask ready, because,

according to the safety sheet, silica dustis something you really don’t want getting into your lungs. these refractory bricks areextremely lightweight and full of air bubbles, which is why they’re so great at insulatingheat, but it also means we won’t need any fancy tools to cut them. a simple wood sawis all you need because the bricks are so soft. in reality, you could probably carvethem out with kitchen utensils, if you really needed to. i put a couple of bricks underthe edges to help channel the dust, and prevent the blade from scratching the table when itcut through. ok, the 3 lines are cut, and you can see they separate the brick into 4pieces. i designed it this way so that one fire brick will make two furnaces, effectivelycutting the cost in half as well. let’s

move on to carving out the reaction chamber,and giving the furnace some special features. i’m using a 3/8” drill bit and a 2”forstner bit i got at my local hardware store. the forstner bit makes it easy to target theexact center of the brick, and doesn’t take much of an effort to begin chewing away atthe refractory material. drilling too fast could rip the brick apart, so let’s takeit slow and steady until the hole’s around 2” deep, which should leave a 1” baseof insulation at the bottom. clean out the dust, and you’ll see we’ve got a nicelittle chamber for our reactions to take place. now let’s turn the brick on it’s sideand use a 3/8” drill bit to burrow down near the top. when it penetrates into thechamber, keep going straight down into

the other side. and when it pops out the bottom,gently push the bit outward to break through the wall, exposing the holes. let’s do thesame thing with the front end of the furnace, except this time we’re not going to go throughthe other side. we’ll need to modify this hole by drilling inward at about a 45⺠angleuntil the tip of the bit meets the bottom of the chamber. if we carefully work the bitupward until it breaks loose, and clean up the edges a bit, the bottom half of the furnaceis finished and looks awesome. the holes on the sides are for the electrodes, and thislast one has a dual purpose. for watching the reaction, and pouring molten metals. nowthe two smaller pieces are the lids for the furnace, and should only need a very smallmodification. two 3/8” holes drilled 1”

from the ends, and 3/4” from the sides toform a place where we can safely store the electrodes when they’re glowing orange,and too hot to put anywhere else. speaking of electrodes, we’re going to need carbonrods like these to strike the arc, because they’re the only things that will handlethe extreme temperatures. i went to a local super center and picked up a 2 pack of 6 voltlantern batteries for under $5. these ones are the “heavy duty” kind. and don’tworry if they’re new or used, because completely dead batteries will work just as well. nowwe need to crack open the container and my tool of choice for doing that is a pair ofwire cutters. if we break the lid off the top and cut the two wires holding it on, we’vegot easy access to the 4 battery cells inside.

go ahead and snip the wires connecting thecells together, then pinch the caps in the center, and gently pry them upward. witha little bit of effort they should pop right out of the casing, and just like that you’vegot a carbon electrode ready to go. but that’s not all. these batteries have all kinds offun things hiding inside. the casings on these cells are made of zinc, and they’re packedwith manganese dioxide. so use something like a screwdriver to scrape around the inside,pulling all that crumbly gunk out. the manganese dioxide could be saved for otherexperiments, but in this project we’re just interested in the carbon rods, and the zinccasings. and i’m really excited because we just scavenged 8 of them. now just for fun, i wedged the zinc battery casings in my bench

vise, and started cranking to see if it wouldmake the casings a bit smaller. apparently you can crush them down so they’re reallycompact, and that’s great because we need them small for an experiment we’re goingto try in just a minute. the last thing we need to make for the mini arc furnace is apair of adjustable stinger grips. i made a trip to the hardware store for two 5’ lengthsof 8 gauge stranded copper wire, two 1/2” copper couplings, #20 stainless steel hoseclamps and two sets of 6” locking pliers. i modified the pliers by removing the rubberhandle grips to expose the metal, then stripped the end of the cables to expose the copper,so they could be secured directly to the pliers with the hose clamps. now, if you put thecopper couplings on the other ends of the

cables, and hammer them flat or clamp them with a bench vise, they make little copper lugs you can hook up to an arc welder for power.like this homemade version i put together with microwave parts. you might remember thatproject where we center tapped the two transformers so it could power the arc furnace on 120 vac.however it works much better on 240 volts, so let’s just leave it as is. now sincethe electrode grips are adjustable, they can be set to bite perfectly onto any size carbonrod we need, and hold them firmly in place. but there is something you need to know aboutthese scavenged rods before you use them. the first time they make electrical contact,they’re going to catch on fire. there’s some kind of wax in the rods that bursts intoflames as soon as they touch, and it’ll

take anywhere from 20-30 seconds to burn itall out. it generates a lot of heat and a lot of smoke, so try to do it outside andaway from anything flammable. at this point our mini arc furnace is completely ready foroperation, so let’s test it out, with the zinc battery casings we scavenged earlier.with one casing in the chamber let’s go ahead and set the lid in place, then powerup the arc welder so the electrodes are charged and ready for action. the magic happens whenthe rods are pushed through the holes in the sides, and suddenly bump into each other,striking a dangerous and blindingly hot arc of electricity. in less than 10 seconds, youcan see the rods are already blazing hot, and amazingly, the metal has already liquified. 8 casingslater the chamber is full of liquid zinc.

so now that it’s runny, let’s test outthe functionality of our built in pour spout. this is how easy it is to transfer moltenmetal from the mini arc furnace, into makeshift ingot molds. now zinc has a relatively lowmelting point, but this furnace is resilient enough to tackle high temperature metals likecopper, and even steel as well. so if you’re in the mood to see glowing streams of moltencopper, or sparks flying around the room, look for those extreme experiments in anotherproject video. alright, our zinc muffin has hardened, so let’s knock it out of the muffintray with a screwdriver, then dip it into a bowl of water to quickly cool it the restof the way. the result is a beautiful chunk of solid zinc, to add to our homemade metalcollection. as a word of caution, in you breathe

any of the zinc oxide fumes when melting zinc,there’s a small chance of catching metal fume fever. so if you recycling zinc yourself, be sure to wear a respirator, or do your experiments outside to reduce the risk. wellnow you know how to extract carbon electrodes from old flashlight batteries, and carve insulatingfire bricks into custom arc reaction chambers. by the way, if you cut the brick into 3”blocks, you’ll get 3 furnaces. and you can even modify them to hold graphite cruciblesfor smaller experiments. well that’s it for now. if you liked this project, perhapsyou’ll like some of my others. check them out at www.thekingofrandom.com

No comments :

Post a Comment